By Harry Stoll

Out of Louisiana bringing barbeque Creole and Cajun comes Robert Duncan — chef and owner of Bobby D’s, a carnivorous cornucopia, a get it catered, take it out or eat it there, down home endeavor. He learned cooking from his 102-year-old grandmother. Grandma taught him right. Good ingredients go in and everything comes out right.

T-shirted, simple, dignified Bobby D stands behind the standup counter, writes down a take out order, clips it to the stainless steel wheel for the cook and calls out: “Crab cakes, blackened catfish, half rack pork.”

The crab cakes come covered with a crispy crust. The fork releases the savory flavor of the tasty bits of crab as it is in heaven. The blackened catfish evokes visceral thrills. At one of the simple serviceable tables a skinny kid gets on the outside of five of the seven pork ribs. “Meaty and firm, but easy to chew” is his verdict. Get the barbeque sauce on the meat or on the side. Nice touch.

The place smells like meat. It arrives in big plastic platters. $8 to $16. You get jalapeno or regular corn bread or bread. Choose two sides from many.

“Yams — fried okra — collard greens — red beans and rice — more ….”

No corporation-dispatched, standard-themed cutesy venue here — we’re talking local owned and operated. But the best reason is the food served in this well-fluorescent-lighted clean place with the kitchen open to the dining room.

“Chicken manifestations …”

Get wings, or get it fried, barbequed or grilled or blackened in a salad. Tuesdays Felicia McDaniel and nephew Jamari take out takeout chicken after teaching Zumba at Delta Park. Half chicken for him, quarter for her.

“Pulled pork — tri-tip — Louisiana hot link sandwiches …”

And on and on as the attentive, not gushy waitress brings it on. The windows face Louisiana. Eating is the aesthetic. Check this: no checks and no pay by swipe or blink, but an AnyTimeMoney machine lets you slot your card because it’s cash only.

“Seafood gumbo — blackened shrimp — poh-boys — hush puppies …”

The sugar bowls are the traditional fluted heavy glass with a metal top. Drink from a hefty plastic glass with Coke writ on the side.

“Lemonade — soda pop …”

Get a dessert; pack it if you can’t handle it.

“Sweet potato pie — four layer red velvet cake — peach cobbler …”

Bobby D’s is at 1635 A Street in Antioch. Call them at 925-775-4025. Or better yet, just drop by. It’s open late morning to late evening.

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Bobby D Duncan in front of his restaurant

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